Frequently asked questions
If you have a question that is not listed below, please do not hesitate to contact us.
Q: How long have you been breeding Bengals and Savannahs?
A: We bought our first Bengal pet in 2006 and our first Bengal queen in 2007. Our first Bengal litter was born in 2008. We then bought our first Savannah queen in 2008 and our first Savannah litter was born in 2009.
Q: What's the difference between a Bengal and a Savannah cat?
A: Bengals and Savannahs are both hybrid cats but each descends from a different wild cat (The Bengal from the Asian Leopard cat, and the Savannah from the African Serval). Whilst they are extremely similar in personality, they should be very different in physical appearance. You can learn more about each breed by visiting the Bengal cat page and the Savannah cat page.
Q: Why are Bengals and Savannahs so expensive?
A: Bengals and Savannahs are not just pedigree cats but also hybrid cats. Generally speaking, breeding hybrid cats is far more complicated and difficult than breeding domestic cats. It has taken many years of hard work, time and money to successfully mate both species of wild cats to domestic cats. Thus the early generation and high percentage offspring are very valuable and rare.
Q: What does the F stand for in F1, F2, F3 etc?
A: The letter F stands for 'filial number' and this represents how many generations the kitten is removed from its wild ancestor. For example:
An F1 kitten would be 1 generation removed from its wild ancestor. This indicates that the kitten has a wild parent.
An F2 kitten would be 2 generations removed from its wild ancestor. This indicates that the kitten has a wild grandparent.
An F3 kitten would be 3 generations removed from its wild ancestor. This indicates that the kitten has a wild great-grandparent.
An F4 kitten would be 4 generations removed from its wild ancestor. This indicates that the kitten has a wild great-great-grandparent.
And so on.
Q: What does SBT stand for?
A: The letters SBT stand for 'stud book tradition'. A kitten with an SBT registration code is at least 4 generations removed from its wild ancestor. An F1, F2 or F3 kitten cannot have an SBT registration code.
Q: What's the difference between buying a kitten as a pet or as a breeder?
A: If you are looking to breed from a kitten then you need to buy a kitten on the active register. The price for a breeder kitten is substantially higher than the price for a pet as you are essentially buying into a business. When you buy a kitten for breeding you are entitled to all of its registration paperwork.
If you are looking to buy a kitten as a pet then you need to buy a kitten on the non-active register. This means your kitten will be registered as 'not for breeding' and you will only receive this paperwork once we receive proof of neuter or spay at 6 months of age, as contracted.
Q: When will my kitten be ready to collect?
A: We only allow our kittens to leave us once they have had a complete course of vaccinations and we are one hundred percent happy with their progress. This is usually between 12-13 weeks of age though if necessary, we do reserve the right to hold back any kitten for the benefit of their health and welfare.
Q: Can I give my kitten a pet name?
A: All of our kittens have a pedigree name. As our prefix is SITTINGPRETTY, this will always come before the name ie. SITTINGPRETTY DENNIS THE MENACE. However this doesn't have to be the kittens pet name. If you have chosen a pet name for your kitten, please let us know so that we can start using it and train the kitten to become responsive to it.
Q: What food does my kitten eat and how often should I feed them?
A: Our kittens are used to the following diet and feeding routine:
Morning
One pouch of Felix Kitten food in jelly.Mid day/afternoon
One pouch of Felix Kitten food in jelly.Evening
One pouch of Felix Kitten food in jelly.All day
A bowl of James Wellbeloved Turkey and Rice Kitten Complete biscuits, Royal Canin Kitten biscuits and Natra -1 Chicken Kitten biscuits.
A bowl of fresh water.
If you feel your kitten is going hungry, by all means increase their portions. However if there are left over's, you may want to decrease the portions.
We also occasionally give our kittens a variety of treats:
Cooked or raw chicken
We use skinless and boneless cuts of chicken and boil to cook it. When feeding raw chicken, we use an industrial grinder to mince a whole chicken (to be split into portions), ensuring that all the bones are finely ground. If you wish to serve it this way, we recommend that you buy raw chicken from your local butcher where you can ask for it minced.Cooked white fish
We use the skinless and boneless fillets of fish, available in most supermarkets. If you are feeding and cooking fresh fish, please remove the skin and bones first and serve plain.Cooked prawns
We use packet ready peeled and cooked prawns, available in most supermarkets. If you are feeding and cooking fresh prawns, please remove the head, tail, shell and poo and only feed the meat.Cooked or raw minced beef
We use human grade fresh packet minced beef, available in most supermarkets.Raw minced rabbit
We recommend that you buy rabbit from your local butcher where you can ask for it minced.Tinned tuna in spring water
We use a branded tuna in spring water that does not contain salt. You should never feed tuna in brine or tuna in oil as it contains too much salt.Cooked rice, pasta and/or vegetables
We cook rice, pasta and/or vegetables and serve them plain.
If you choose to give your kitten the raw food, please make sure it has been refrigerated and it is fresh. If you do not use it within 24 hours, please cook it or discard it.
Q: Is there anything my kitten shouldn't eat?
A: You should never feed your kitten table scraps, fast/fried food, cows milk or any product containing gravy.
Q: When should my kitten start eating adult food?
A: Once your kitten reaches one year old you should change their kitten food to adult food. We also advise that you continue to use the same brands of food throughout. If you need to change the brands of foods, please do so slowly. Otherwise your kitten may refuse to eat and may also have diarrhoea.
Q: Will my kitten be litter trained?
A: Whilst our kittens are growing up, they watch and learn from their mum. She initially teaches them to use the litter tray and we help out when needed. So when our kittens leave us they are fully litter trained but that's not to say they wont have the odd accident. If your kitten does have an accident, do not dispose of the waste. Put the waste in your kittens litter tray and hopefully they will follow the scent.
Q: How often should I change the kittens litter and clean the litter tray?
A: Stools and urine can carry all sorts of nasties and cause infections if left to fester in the litter tray. We recommend that you scoop out any stools daily, provide fresh litter at least twice a week and disinfect each tray at least once a week.
Q: What type of cat litter do you use?
A: When our kittens are very young we use layers pellets as litter. This is because some kittens try and eat litter and layer pellets are safe for them to digest. Once our kittens are older and due to the amount of litter trays we have and how frequently we change and clean them, we then use a supermarket brand litter.
Q: What do I need to bring with me when I collect my kitten?
A: Assuming your balance owing has been paid by cleared funds, all you need to bring with you is a cat carrier of some type. We will not allow kittens to leave us without one as letting a kitten roam free in a moving vehicle is highly dangerous to both the kitten, the driver and the passengers.
It is also a good idea to put something like a worn T-shirt inside the cat carrier. This will hold your scent and help the kitten to adjust to you and their new environment.
Q: Will my kitten be ok traveling back home us with us?
A: Some kittens are quite content traveling and others can get distressed and be very vocal all the way home! The problem is often to do with the motion of moving and the sound and vibration of the engine running. If possible it is a good idea to put the cat carrier somewhere near to you or another passenger. Keep talking to the kitten so that they know they are not alone. This will also help them to start recognising your voice. You may also want to try playing soothing music.
Q: I live a long distance from you. If I buy a kitten from you, will you be able to deliver it?
A: If you are unable to collect your kitten we will be more than happy to organise delivery for you. Where possible we like to deliver the kitten ourselves but when this is not possible we use a pet courier that we know and trust. If you would like a quotation for delivery (either by ourselves or our pet courier), please send us your full postal address.
We can also aid transportation for delivery outside of the UK. Please contact us for further details.
Q: Will my kitten be ok with my children?
A: Our kittens are used to adults and children alike. However children can be very loud and excitable and your kitten may get scared. Just teach your child to be gentle and caring with the kitten. Show them how to hold the kitten correctly and teach them never to show aggression. Please do not ever leave your child unsupervised with a kitten. Likewise never leave a kitten alone in a room with a baby.
Q: Will my kitten be ok with my other pets?
A: Bengals and Savannahs are highly sociable cats and generally they mix very well with other pets. Some of our previous kittens have shared homes with cats, dogs, rabbits, birds, reptiles and fish and we haven't had any problems reported as of yet.
Q: How do I introduce my kitten to my other pets?
A: You should always introduce your kitten to your other pets gradually. To aid this procedure, try some of the following steps:
Initially, confine your kitten to a different room. This will help your other pets to pick up the kittens scent and sounds. You can also take the scent of the kitten (from underneath the tail, near to the genitals) and rub it on the bodies of your other pets and vice versa.
Allow your kitten to meet your other pets by opening the door for a few minutes, several times a day for a few days before allowing the new kitten to explore other rooms.
At feeding time, provide separate bowls for your kitten and your other pets and place some distance between them. Each day, decrease this distance until your kitten and your other pets are happy to eat alongside each other.
Where appropriate, initiate games (such as fetching) that encourage your pets to play together.
Give your kitten and your other pets equal attention and cuddles.
Q: Should I keep my kitten in one room or can I leave them to explore?
A: To start with you should allocate one quiet room in your house where your kitten can hide and be safe. Please choose a room that is big enough for the kitten to run around and explore and that is able to house a food and water bowl, a litter tray, a selection of toys, a scratching post and a nice warm cosy bed.
Within the next few days and once your kitten has begun to gain confidence, you should gradually them to start exploring other rooms.
Although your kitten has been raised in a home environment with people, televisions, hoovers etc, there will always be lots of new sounds and smells in your house, so your kitten may get frightened. It is important to let your kitten find each room in the house rather than being carried from room to room. So then if your kitten does get frightened, they are able to run back to their 'safe' place without getting lost.
Q: How can I 'kitten proof' my house?
A: Kittens are inquisitive and mischievous and can easily be put in danger. Whichever room(s) your kitten will be living in, please make sure that any wires, small items, detergents, medicines and plants etc are removed or out of reach. Keep your windows and doors shut and use your common sense to envisage what could cause trouble for the kitten and act upon it.
Q: Are their any plants that are poisonous to my kitten?
A: There are various plants that will be poisonous to your kitten. Please click here for a comprehensive list.
Q: Should I keep my kitten indoors or are they allowed to go out?
A: We strongly recommend that you keep your Bengal or Savannah kitten indoors. You may feel that it is unnatural and unfair to do this but if that is the case we suggest you buy a moggie. There are many reasons for this:
Your kitten has never ventured outside of our house (except for visits to the vets). Letting the kitten go out will put them in immediate danger. They will not be streetwise and will most probably get knocked down!
Your kitten was expensive and this will be very attractive to a thief!
Your kitten clearly doesn't look like the average moggie. Again this will be very attractive to a thief!
Your kitten could pick up all sorts of viruses and diseases from outside.
Your kitten will be perfectly happy indoors if you provide them with stimulation and entertainment. Bengals and Savannahs love to climb so a scratching post will aid this and it will also help to prevent your furniture getting ruined. Both breeds are also highly intelligent so puzzle toys are a great idea. However you need not spend a fortune on toys as kittens are just as happy with a rolled up ball of paper or a cardboard box to climb in!
If possible, give your kitten access to a room with windows and a view of outside. This will not tease them in any way but will excite and stimulate them.
If you want your kitten to experience the outdoors but like us worry about the dangers, why not try taking them for a walk with a lead/harness. Many of our previous customers do this and they have reported that their kittens thoroughly enjoy it.
Q: My kitten has diarrhoea. What should I do?
A: Your kitten is essentially0 a hybrid cat and hybrid cats are prone to diarrhea. Their stomachs are more sensitive than those of a domestic cat and this is why your kitten has a specific diet. If your kitten does have diarrhea, please try the following steps:
Reduce the amount of wet food (Felix) and increase the amount of dry food (Royal Canin and James Wellbeloved).
Mix in some cooked chicken breast (no bones) with some dry biscuits and a little bit of warm water.
Put down a bowl of natural/unflavored pro-biotic yogurt, once or twice a week.
Put down a bowl of Lectade or Oralaid daily to reduce the risk of dehydration. This can be purchased online or from your vet. Please follow the instructions on the packaging.
If the diarrhea becomes yellow/green in colour, has alot of blood in it or/and smells as if something is decaying, then I would advise a trip to the vets. It could be a parasitic problem but please do remember to let your vet know that your kitten was treated for parasites before you collected him/her.
Q: My kitten seems unwell. Should I take him/her to the vets?
A: Kittens go downhill very quickly. If you suspect they are unwell for any reason, however trivial it may seem, please take them to the vets.
Q: When should I have my kitten spayed/neutered?
A: If you have bought a kitten for the purpose of being a pet, you will have signed a sales contract stating that you must have that kitten spayed or neutered at 6 months of age. You must then send us proof of this in order to obtain your kittens registration papers.
Q: When does my kitten need a booster vaccination?
A: Your kitten had their first vaccination at around 9 weeks old and their second vaccination at around 12 weeks old. The dates of these vaccinations are documented in your kittens vaccination card which was given to you at the time of collection/delivery. Booster vaccinations are due 12 months after the second vaccination was given and every 12 months there after.
Q: When should I worm/flea treat my kitten?
A: If your kitten has access to the outdoors, we recommend that you treat them for parasites monthly. If your kitten stays solely indoors, we recommend you treat them for parasites every three to four months. The products that we recommend you use are Milbemax or Panacur (for worms) and Stronghold spot on (for other parasites).